Foja Expedition 2008

A grizzled tree-kangaroo (top) and a clearwing moth (bottom) found in the Foja mountains. © Bruce Beehler/CI

Our second team, which had missed out on a helicopter ride because of the failing weather conditions, ultimately made it to their camp – on foot.

Fortunately, the river level was down this morning, so we could dry our wet things in the morning sun and do some wildlife watching. We had ascended into an area where no villagers visited. As a result wildlife was abundant and unwary.

A giant northern cassowary (Casuarius unappendiculatus) stood on the beach at one point and watched us as we hiked up the opposite side of the river. This 100-pound bird sported a massive body covered by shaggy black fur-like feathers, a bare neck and head of pale blue, orange, navy, and yellow, and a high casque (bony crest) atop its head that looks a bit like a crown.

We repeatedly flushed lowland wallabies (Dorcopsis muelleri) at the edge of the forest. We encountered four in two days. Two grizzled tree-kangaroos (Dendrolagus inustus) fed peacefully in a tall Pometia tree by the river.

Birds were everywhere – five varieties of cawing birds of paradise; vulturine parrots (Psittrichas fulgidus), sulphur-crested cockatoos (Cacatua galerita), palm cockatoos (Probosciger aterrimus), various colorful lorikeets, noisy Blyth's hornbills (Rhyticeros plicatus).

The dawn chorus of birdsong and the rattle of cicadas and kaydids were deafening. There is nothing like it!

– Reported by Bruce Beehler

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