Okavango Delta Expedition

 
June 19, 2000

I spent the morning in a mokoro with Seteng Motalaote, AquaRAP's authority on aquatic birds. As Academy Director of the School for International Training at World Learning, Botswana Branch, he teaches conservation biology and research methods to university students.

And he has a passion for birds – the perfect person for an aspiring birder like myself to team up with. I got to play ornithologist by recording the species and number of birds as Seteng called them out. I also managed to spot a few myself and add them to the list.

Reed cormorants and great white egrets.

One of the highlights of our morning was a flock of 80 Openbilled Storks flying high in the sky.

I later found out that the Invertebrates Team had discovered a mess of cracked Apple Snail shells (Lonistes ovum) on open platforms of grass. They had probably been opened by these same storks, which use their nutcracker-shaped bills to crack them open.

Here are a few of the other abundant bird species we counted:

African jacana

These birds were easy to spot, and we counted almost 75 of them. African jacanas have a bright blue frontal shield (area above the bill) and long blueish legs and nails, which they use to walk easily across floating vegetation.

Black crake

Due to its small size, elusive habits and booming call (which nearly started me out of my skin my first day in Africa – I thought it must be a huge carnivore) this bird is more often seen than heard. However, here Southeast of Chief's Island, we got a good glimpse of more than 10 of these dark, yellow-billed birds.

Reed cormorant

We saw many of these dark, streamlined birds racing by overhead. It's prime breeding time for these birds, so I suspect they were hurrying to bring fish to hungry nestlings hidden in dense aquatic grasses.

Fish eagle

Each time we spotted a fish eagle, we jotted down the GPS coordinates. This is a huge bird – at least as big as the American bald eagle – with a white head and neck. We frequently heard them calling on the waters outside camp, where they have a nest. Seteng wants to keep track of the number of fish eagles that are here: because they're at the top of the food chain, they're an important indicator of the health of the ecosystem.

Wattled crane

We didn't see this bird today, though we know it lives here. It's an endangered species and another that Seteng was eager to record. He mentioned that, if he has a favorite bird, this is it: as Seteng put it, they are "faithful, romantic and gracious" in their habits. The birds mate for life and perform an elaborate dance ritual each mating season.

We had a lot of fun, but this was serious work for Seteng. What was he trying to find out by counting aquatic birds? "I'm trying to establish data that shows trends for particular species," he told me. "These trends can be used to measure the health of the Delta, because birds are sensitive to environmental changes. We can look at data collected by other AquaRAP groups – such as water quality and plants – and gain insight into why problems may exist." Seteng will compare the species and abundance of birds he's noted with the data collected in 1996-97 by the Department of Wildlife.

Seteng explains why it's important to monitor aquatic birds.

Crane habitat

Although his study is not yet complete, I asked him if he's seen anything that's surprised him thus far. "We're seeing birds in much larger numbers that in the past, probably due to the high flood levels caused by heavy rains," said Seteng.

"Birds are also very sensitive to positive environmental changes and will take advantage of good conditions to breed earlier and more frequently." One example of this is the abundance of breeding birds at our last site, Moremi Game Reserve. One particular lagoon he called a "miracle": this wooded island surrounded by slow-moving, fish-filled water provides the perfect nesting habitat for yellow-billed storks, reed cormorants, black egrets, rufous-bellied herons and an abundance of other birds.

Particularly significant is the fact that they don't usually breed until August. It's only June, but these birds already have nests full of youngsters. The conditions have been right, so the birds have taken advantage of it. In addition, he discovered that this site is an important breeding area for slaty egrets; until now, no one knew for sure where this rare bird nested.

Seteng also mentioned that it's good to see so many African jacanas. "This is probably attributable to the fact that motor boats aren't allowed here," said Seteng. "The jacana needs floating vegetation to walk across as they look for food. Motor boats, unfortunately, break up the aquatic plants, and the jacanas move on."

I wanted to know how Seteng got interested in birds – wondering if he, like me, had fallen in love with a particular species of bird. For Seteng, it's more holistic: "I love being on the water and have a passion for a healthy environment," he said. "Wetlands are the biological supermarkets of the world, where species are bought and sold. There's plenty of life here, and that's what draws me."

He did admit, however, to a particular interest in cranes. "I met Dr. George Archibald of the International Crane Foundation, and he introduced me to the crane. It's a wonderful bird – faithful, romantic, and gracious. But their life in this world is highly compromised." With Seteng on their side, I'm betting that the Delta's wattled crane will have a fighting chance.

— Reported by Clare Nielsen

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